Postcards from Senegal: Reflections on Gorée (Slave) Island
An extraordinary day of nature, history & food in Dakar, Senegal.
Happy Easter from Dakar, Senegal. 🇸🇳
“I felt like I’d just walked into a postcard. There is beauty everywhere!
Sitting on the edge of the continent, Dakar is a city of contrasts, on the westernmost part of Africa. With its bustling markets, colourful colonial-era architecture, and the endless Atlantic Ocean meeting golden sands, everyday here has been a feast for the senses.
The aromas of spices, the vibrant music in the streets, the chatter of locals in the lyrical language of Wolof, and of course, the incredible food, it’s been a dream come true.
The beauty of Gorée Island
Amidst this vibrant city, one experience stood out above all: a journey to Gorée Island. I set off aboard a private boat from the marina of Terrou-Bi Resort, gliding across the Atlantic. The day, thoughtfully arranged by the hotel’s conciergerie, proceeded with a local guide welcoming me onto the island. It felt like stepping into a postcard. There is beauty everywhere.
On arrival, we walked straight into a Palm Sunday procession. Mass beneath ancient baobab trees, on a former slave island at the edge of Africa, was something I had never imagined. What a blessing. I’m not sure who was more excited-me, or my mum receiving a stream of photos.
My excitement slowly gave way to a deep, quiet sadness as we toured the island’s slave houses-more like dungeons. Gorée, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, stands as one of Senegal’s most important historical landmarks. At the Maison des Esclaves, the memory of those enslaved between the 15th and 19th centuries is preserved. Many died there; others were forced through the “Door of No Return,” onto ships bound across the Atlantic.
Sadness softened into a quiet, reflective calm as I wandered the bougainvillea lined streets, greeting locals in their local language of Wolof;
“Nanga def?” meaning “How are you?”
“Nanga def maman?” I said to the older mamas selling their fabric, baskets and beads.
To which they gleefully responded, “Mangi fi rekk” - “I’m fine!”
With fewer than 2,000 inhabitants, Gorée today feels warm, colourful, and quietly enchanting. Its narrow streets and vibrant facades soften the weight of history, reminding you that resilience and beauty can still flourish.
Easter, in its essence, feels like this island. After loss and sacrifice, life returns. Just as we celebrate the resurrection of Christ, beauty can emerge from even the deepest sorrow.
At the highest point of the island, the land opens into a windswept plateau overlooking the Atlantic. Near Fort d’Estrées stands the white Memorial Gorée-Almadies, a quiet, symbolic structure facing the ocean, connecting Gorée to the wider Atlantic world. The view is endless, both breathtaking and heavy with memory.
Nearby, I stumbled upon what felt like the island’s only bookshop, run by a gentle baba. I couldn’t resist a vintage postcard. Close by, sand artists worked patiently, creating delicate paintings from coloured grains gathered across the country, capturing island life with quiet precision.
On the way back to the boat, I could not resist dipping my feet into the ocean. In that moment, life, death, loss, abundance and everything in between felt profoundly present.
The Terrou-Bi Resort conciergerie arranged a heartwarming day that included a private boat ride, a guided tour of the island and slave houses, and a lavish Sunday brunch back at the resort.
Every detail was thoughtfully planned, leaving me room for reflection, wonder, and joy. Their team are known to go above and beyond for guests. It was the perfect way to celebrate Easter, and it set the tone for what promised to be an unforgettable week ahead in Dakar.
What’s to come!
This week in Dakar has also set the stage for much travel and food inspiration that I can’t wait to share with you. A little taste of Senegal that you can bring straight into your own kitchen.
And maybe a cookery & cultural retreat across Senegal? Hmm…
Lots of love…
Cook with me at home in London
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Now that is first-rate travel writing: your thoughtful words and exquisite photographs bring this vibrant place I have never visited to life on a screen on the other side of the world! I look forward to your recipes inspired by your visit (as the food on that long table looks very delicious!).